Seasonal kitchen & market table
We don’t
write the menu.
The morning does.
A seasonal kitchen in a Somerset brick kiln — nine dishes a night, sourced within a morning’s drive and cooked over one wood fire.
The hearth
Fig. 01
In from the morning run
High Summer · Jun — Aug
Sungold tomatoes
Day-boat plaice
Podded peas
Coal-baked flatbread
Sheep’s curd
Charred hispi
Pickled walnut
Burnt honey
Gully Farm
4 mi
/
Tide & Line
78 mi
/
Wick Bakehouse
1 mi
/
Home Field
6 mi
/
Marsh & Meadow
9 mi
/
The Orchard Rows
5 mi
/
The field writes the menu. We just cook the reply.
We start with what’s ready, not with what we feel like cooking. The card is printed at four in the afternoon, once the morning’s pick is in and the boat has landed.
Nine dishes, one fire, nothing wasted — yesterday’s bread is today’s ice cream. It means the menu can never quite lie to you, because it can’t be written before the ingredients arrive. You can taste the postcode. We think that’s the whole thing.
Tonight, a few of them.
Fig.
01
Coal-baked
Wick Bakehouse · Gully Farm
Dish №
01
Flatbread from the ashes
Yesterday’s dough, baked directly on the coals, torn and dressed with green oil and the first of the sungold tomatoes.
Origin
Wick Bakehouse · Gully Farm
Method
Coal-baked
Fig.
02
Wood fire
Tide & Line · day boat
Dish №
02
Whole plaice, brown butter
Landed at Brixham before the tide turned, over the fire whole, finished with capers, lovage and a squeeze of lemon.
Origin
Tide & Line · day boat
Method
Wood fire
Fig.
03
Barely cooked
Gully Farm · Marsh & Meadow
Dish №
03
Podded peas, curds & mint
Picked at six, shelled at nine, barely warmed. Fresh sheep’s curd, garden mint, a little of last year’s honey.
Origin
Gully Farm · Marsh & Meadow
Method
Barely cooked
Fig.
04
Churned daily
The Orchard Rows
Dish №
04
Burnt honey & brown bread ice
Bread we couldn’t sell, toasted dark and churned into cream, with honey taken past sweet into smoke.
Origin
The Orchard Rows
Method
Churned daily
Six growers, a boat, and a baker.
Everyone who feeds the kiln is within a morning’s drive — bar the boat, which is worth the road. No line without a name behind it.
Gully Farm
Tide & Line
Wick Bakehouse
Home Field
Marsh & Meadow
The Orchard Rows
06
Tonight’s card, in five acts.
At dinner there is one menu — five courses, chosen for you, the same for the whole table, written this morning. Sit at the bar for the à la carte.
£58
per person
The Market Menu
v. today
I
On arrival — warm olives, orange & fennel
II
To begin — podded peas, sheep’s curd & mint
III
From the fire — whole plaice, brown butter & capers
IV
To finish — burnt honey & brown-bread ice
V
and whatever the fire gives.
Written at dawn, the same for the whole table. Wine pairing, +38.
